Showing posts with label Clothing Manufacturers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Clothing Manufacturers. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Vanity Sizing

While I think the discussion is a good one and important to make a decision about, the premise in the below article is flipped in my experience. Typically, designer brands tend to have smaller sizes and mass merchants more vanity sizing.  What do you think?

1.  More expensive brands run larger - agree or disagree

2.  Having a standard size guide would make my business better - agree or disagree

3.  Vanity sizing is helpful - agree or disagree. 

Clothing designers appeal to women’s ego with vanity sizing

BY SARA BAUKNECHT February 29, 2012 11:33AM
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The retail world is flooded by a sea of clothing sizes. To find the right one, women must tread through “misses,” “petites,” “pluses,” “juniors” and more, depending upon the store. And even after discovering a favored fit in one brand, the same woman may balloon to a larger size or slip effortlessly into a skinny-minnie one by another designer.

In many cases, this seesaw in sizes is the culprit is vanity sizing, or the fact that the U.S. government doesn’t enforce a standard of measurements for women’s clothing sizes .

A standard measurement chart does exist, but it may be next to impossible for the government to require designers to stick to it, says Paula Minydzak, an adjunct instructor in fashion for the Art Institute of Pittsburgh, who also is a tailor at a Men’s Wearhouse.

Standardizing sizes can complicate transactions between domestic and foreign designers whose countries sometimes have different measurement charts, she says. It also may turn some women off from shopping at first if they wear a larger size under the government-regulated measurement chart.

“It’s the equivalent of sticker shock,” Minydzak says.

So for now, the size guessing continues, which has its pros and cons.
 For designers, the flexibility to come up with their own sizes helps them create and market clothes for their target consumers — and their egos.

“It’s easier for someone to sell clothes when they make people feel good,” Minydzak says. 

“One of the best ways to do it is make a woman feel like she wears a smaller size.”

But toying with people’s perceptions of their body image can have consequences. In 2005, Kinley conducted a study in which 75 women between the ages of 19 and 58 were instructed to try on different sizes.

“What I found was a strong age relationship,” she says, adding that women in their 20s seemed to care more about fitting into a smaller size than those in their 40s or older.

In another study, from 2003, Kinley and some students measured about 1,000 pairs of pants by different designers of similar styles and cuts and found “statistically significant differences within some size numbers,” she says. She also observed that clothes by designers with higher price points tended to be more generously cut, with Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein among the most forgiving.

Minydzak has noticed that clothes by more affordable brands tend to run more narrow in the sleeve and leg.

Many brands view their sizes not as mind games but as ways to better relate to shoppers’ needs, wants and body types.

For clothier Anthropologie, the goal is to sell quality clothes with consistent sizes that appeal to the body shapes and lifestyles of its target customer base of 28- to 45-year-olds, says Wendy Wurtzburger, chief merchandising and design officer.

“Our intention is to have a size grade for her that is flattering but is honest and isn’t trying to make her feel like something she isn’t,” Wurtzburger says.

Other stores have disregarded the typical double-digit numerical-size chart altogether. Sizes used by the clothing chain Chico’s range from 000 to 4.5, with the former being for women who usually wear a zero and the latter for a size 22.

Studies have found that the public wants clothing labels with more sizing information on them, Kinley says. Stores such as Macy’s and Lane Bryant recently have launched Web components with tips on what sizes, brands and styles may be best suited for their customers.

But whatever designers come up with next, comfort and satisfaction — not size — should be the motivation behind a purchase.

“We have to use sizes as a guide but respect the fact that that brand does not mean you are that size,” Minydzak says. “You are your size. Your body is your body, and there is no brand or no standard set of measurements that is going to be made exactly for you as a woman.”

Monday, March 5, 2012

The role of a business owner


For most of us, it’s been a while since we sat down and asked ourselves big questions about our business.   I’m not talking about the kind of questions like, am I going to make payroll, I’m talking about strategy, your customer, and last but now least, are you happy doing this?  I recently read a blog post on paraschopra.com about the three simple questions to ask yourself to validate your start up idea, but I really think some of these thoughts also apply to existing businesses and are important to think about at least once a year.

Strategy

I hate the saying: you need to work on your business not in it.  Probably because this was one of my biggest downfalls at my first company, Kate Boggiano.  Owning my own clothing line was great, but because of lack of funds, I wasn’t able to staff it like I should of which meant I was the designer, lead sales person, technical designer, production manager, and would even ship packages.  Looking back on it now, these things were totally necessary for me to do in order to get things done, the traditional way.  Sometimes in an industry, the traditional route isn’t the one that is most profitable or accessible to you and your situation, and THAT’S OK!  There is no “right” way to go about making a profitable business – but there might be a “right” way for you.  Case in point, when I started Kate Boggiano, I was determined to produce a tight 2 season line that had some of the best blouses in the business.  Many years, stores, and sales reps later, I ended up designing a HUGE line that I didn’t really believe in anymore because I listened to what everyone else was saying and I thought I needed to have 40 SKU’s/season in order to sell into enough stores.  With a staff of 3, this made life unbearable and I burned out as did my staff.  I think we would have been more successful, believed in the brand more, and done an all around better job if I would have had the courage to do things differently, kept the line small but kick ass, and believed in the power of supply and demand.  In an industry as old as fashion, things will change eventually.  We are seeing it now with the new mobile technology especially with the era of the internet upon us.  Soon, customers will be able to walk into a store, take a photo of a clothing item, and be able to compare prices against everyone else on the internet.  Scary but it’s coming!  The Stock Flock is addressing this problem from an inventory point of view.  By giving stores the most up to date inventory availability, we are allowing the store and the brand to take advantage of the internet before the end customer is able to.  My advice is to take some time and really think about ways in which you think you could make a change and add an efficiency or decrease the amount of steps needed to complete a task.  You’ll be amazed how much taking time to strategize will save in time and money which will equate to a bigger contribution to the bottom line.

Your Customer

In fashion, we are really good about painting a picture of who our “girl” is.  I can’t tell you how many design meetings I’ve been in where we’ve painted an elaborate picture of what our downtown, 20 something, brunch loving, gallery opening, friend influencer is doing at the exact moment when she finds our must have blouse hanging in the coolest boutique on her vacation to Sonoma, CA.  Sound familiar?  The funny thing about these moments is that who much time do we spend thinking about how many of these “girls” there actually are and exactly how are you going to interrupt their life to reach them in a way that will make them buy your awesome blouse instead of your competitors.  On the flip side, having generic looking clothes that anyone can find anywhere is targeting a market that is too big and hard to reach because you have created very little differentiation between your brand and the others hanging on the rack.  As a small or medium size company, knowing who your customer is, how many there are, and how to approach market penetration of this customer will be some of the best thought out strategy sessions there are.  After all, if you’re looking for the girl in the example, do you really want to spend a lot of money at a Midwest tradeshow?  Probably not.

Do you wake up on fire about your business, everyday?

This is tricky but important to think about.  Owning a business is one of the bigger commitments in life and liking your business and the industry in general is very important.  Most likely there will come a time when you find yourself really disliking something you are doing.  For me, collecting money from my late paying stores was the absolute worst.  I found that for me, it strained my relationship with my stores, made me feel poorly about the state of the business, and I found myself wasting a lot of time in preparation to make those tough phone calls.  After a lot of thinking and researching outsourcing, factoring, and ACH, I decided to train someone else to do it within our company and it made all the difference.    If there is something you know you don’t look forward to and it’s disrupting your work flow, figure out a way to get it off your plate.  Sometimes the anxiety it causes is not worth the money you save by doing it yourself especially if the anxiety can stack up in such a big way that it changes your overall feeling about your business.  Additionally, your strengths as a business owner are most likely well developed and your time will be better spent performing these strengths as they will be the differentiation between you and your competition.

While owning a startup, small, or even medium size business is fast paced and exciting, it’s very important to take yourself out of the day to day and strategize.  Afterall, you are the leader of the organization and not only do you need to figure out how to get things done, it’s also important to see things coming before everyone else.

Happy Leading!
Kate

Thursday, February 16, 2012

A downward trend - manufacturing apparel in China

My first experience with manufacturing apparel in China came in 2004 when I was a technical designer for Ralph Lauren in NYC.  I was a fresh slate and had no opinion of China when I started other then I knew it was less expensive to manufacture there than it was in the USA.  Over the course of my employment as a technical designer, I developed a very strong anti-China opinion.  From horrible rashes on my arms I received from opening boxes full of our product that came from the factory floor (all production items are "cleaned" unlike the samples we received - I wonder what kind of chemicals that entails) to contracting pink eye multiple times from  working with our samples getting them ready for line opening to having over 500 new messages in my inbox from 10 different people working at the same factory asking me the same question 15 different ways, China's positives for me wore off very quickly.  It now seems that for many, their opinion of China is starting to change as well, although I'm sure that the reason is far from human rights and patriotism.

In 2010, China's estimated per capita income was $7,600 - not a lot by our standards, however this is a huge increase over previous years and is higher then other countries where there is talk of the apparel manufacturing industry migrating to in order for manufacturers to pay lower wages. Recently, Bangladesh (annual income of $1,700) was identified as the potential new apparel sourcing hotspot.  Some estimates are as high as export value around $36-42 billion by 2020 meaning the current market in Bangladesh with double by 2015 and nearly triple in 10 years.  To put it in perspecitve, China exported $111 billion worth of textiles and apparel to the world last year alone.  It's going to take a while for the shift to occur.

I came across the blog simply-american.net when looking into the state of China and the author had some very funny ideas about where to go from China next:

Somalia
Positives:  Very motivated workers since Somalia’s estimated annual per capita income is around $600 a year.  Lots of port facilities.  Good cell phone and Internet services.
Negatives:  Complete lack of a central government.  Your manufacturing site managers will have to learn to get along with the Islamist Al-Shabaab group.  Lots of Pirates.
Democratic Republic of the Congo
Positives:  Very very motivated workers since the Democratic Republic of Congo’s estimated annual per capita income is around $300 a year.  Big labor pool as the Democratic Republic of Congo has a population of over 71 million people.  Ability to order your workers around in French if you want since lots of people there speak French.
Negatives:  Well established history of corruption.  Daily production meetings can take a long time since 242 languages are spoken in the country.  Lots of diseases and snakes.
Afghanistan
Positives:  Very motivated workers since Afghanistan’s estimated annual per capita income is around $900 a year.  Everyone has heard of Afghanistan, especially us, the former Soviet Union and the English.  Given long history of exporting opium, exporting clothing should be a snap.
Negatives:  Managing Pashtuns can be tricky.  Very hot climate but no nice beaches.  Finding female workers will not be that easy within the next few years I would guess.
Comoros
Positives:  Motivated workers since Comoros’ estimated annual per capita income is around $1000 a year.  Since the whole country is an island, you might be able to trick your managers into believing that they are actually working in Hawaii.  Good scuba diving for you and your family during your annual production visit.
Negatives:  More than 20 coups in the last 35 years.  Lots of volcanos.  The whole country is an island.


I really liked this tongue and cheek analysis of possible hopeful future production facilities and also agree with the final point of the article.  Instead of dealing with foreign countries, oceans, and corruption, why not just make your apparel in this country?  It might end up being more cost effective, produce less headaches, and even sell more clothing at the end of the day!  People are very aware of where that label states the item is made and the closing argument in many folks minds now a days is Made in the USA!


Happy Sourcing!
Kate


PS - if the cost of holding USA made inventory is what's scaring you, we can help!  Sign up for our newsletter at thestockflock.com!

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Old vs. New


In the world of fashion, there are two extremes:  the new and trendy and the old and vintage and anything in the middle is considered horrific, or is it?  Let’s think through a few different possibilities and how to turn the horrific into fabulous again.

Have some end of season merchandise hanging in your store or warehouse?
1. Get rid of it
            Liquidate – Whether it be in your store, selling it to an off price store (Fox’s, TJMaxx etc), or checking with your contacts such as sales reps for info on where they sell of their samples, get rid of it!  One of my favorite business consultants Jane Hamill gets it right when she says to take a loss – some cash is better than no cash!
Retail events – Retail events occur fairly regularly in many cities throughout the country.  These are great places to meet new customers and clear old merchandise without your store or brand in question.  If you choose to build your email list through these events, we suggest adding a list for “clearance or sale” customers so you can market to them appropriately.
Clearance sale- Although the ultimate goal is to have all customers buy your merchandise full price, it’s realistic.  Especially when sizes are involved, stores often times rely on the right person to have the right body type at the right time and this simply doesn’t always happen.  Twice a year for a clearance sale is pretty normal (check out Nordstrom’s twice yearly sale) and a good way to reward some of your best customers with priority notice or pre-shopping benefits.  Remember to notify those customers on your sale or clearance list after your top shoppers have been through!

2.  Buy it
            Closeouts – it’s all about the blended margin.  A great resource for finding high margin goods since you can get it for less are closeout sales.  Look at this for basics and things you know you can sell.  Why not make some of these items private label?  Check out Retail Minded for a great description of the difference between liquidation and closeouts
Vendor sales on old or past seasons – Ask your top selling lines if they have any merchandise from prior seasons or returns from other stores of your top selling merchandise and get it back in the store at a better price. 

If old stuff is so bad, then new stuff must be awesome! Right?!?
           
How many turns do you try for a year?  Most boutiques are looking for 4/year based on the seasonality of their business, but what if you could pull more?  Inventory turn  is the life blood of any product intensive business and the key to success.  All decisions should be made based on how fast it will turn and produce a profit. 

Happy shopping!

Monday, February 6, 2012

Fashion Designers and The Stock Flock


We’ve told you what we had in mind for stores, but how about their suppliers?  Check out our short video to learn more!



While we are currently undergoing a private alpha test, please make sure to sign up to learn more about what’s coming soon at www.thestockflock.com.

Thanks for reading!
Kate